Vanlife Iceland with Ása Steinars: 10 days in a camper, a solar eclipse, and a lot of rain.
August 27th, 2026
I’d wanted to do this for years - and had put it off for just as long. This year, Janine and I decided: no more procrastinating. We booked "Eclipse Week." What followed wasn't a relaxing vacation; it was a voyage of discovery. It involved rain, twelve vans, 24 strangers who turned into a circus family, and two minutes of darkness I’ll never forget.
How I discovered Vanlife Iceland
I know Leo Alsved from my time with Ski Week and Yacht Week - organized trips I used to shoot a lot of content for. Leo is now married to Ása Steinars, whom you probably know from Instagram: an Icelandic photographer creating adventure content with over a million followers. Together, they launched Vanlife Iceland, week-long campervan trips across Iceland that offer guides, planned locations, and structure, yet plenty of freedom.
The idea was already in the works when I filmed with the two of them in the Westfjords about five years ago; the event hadn't launched yet back then. Once I saw it on their profiles later on, it went straight onto my bucket list.
To be honest, I was a bit apprehensive about doing it solo. Campervan life is a different kind of vacation, and I wasn't sure how Janine would feel about the idea. We talked about it this year. I enjoy alternating between relaxing holidays and adventure trips, and this is pure adventure. I messaged Leo to ask which route he recommended. Naturally, he recommended all of them. For us, the "Eclipse Week" seemed the most exciting. Eventually, it became clear: if we don't do this now, we never will. It wasn't a decision based on money; we want to experience things, not just kick back and relax.
Brief interruption.
A personal note.
I regularly write posts like this for the newsletter covering brand building, content, and what really happens during shoots. If you’d like to get them straight to your inbox instead of stumbling upon them by chance, sign up. No spam, no daily clutter. Just when there’s something worth saying.
Expectation vs. First Day
My vision: We drive around in the camper, see beautiful sights, and have a good time. In the end, that’s exactly how it turned out.
What was different right away? Rain. Almost non-stop for the first two days. That is the toughest possible introduction to camping: dampness inside the van, everything feeling clammy, nothing drying out. For Janine, it was the rude awakening I had feared. Things improved after that, but the start was a real struggle.
Inside our van
The layout was simple: a bench seat spanning the width of the vehicle, accessible from both sides. A small kitchenette with a sink. A surprisingly large chest fridge. Dishes and cooking gear were included, and we cooked on a small gas stove. Everything worked fine.
We converted the bench into a bed once - and that’s how it stayed for the rest of the trip. We almost always ate outside because the constant converting back and forth was too much of a hassle. When it rained, everything got wet anyway, so we wanted to keep things as simple as possible.
The only snag was the electrical system. Charging a phone via the inverter was no problem. Charging laptop and drone batteries, however, required the engine to be running; otherwise, the auxiliary battery would drain completely. I hadn't known that beforehand, and it really disrupted my usual workflow: normally, I charge everything overnight and am ready to go in the morning. Here, I had to constantly plan ahead - thinking about what I’d need next and where I could charge things while driving. It wasn't a huge deal, but it took some getting used to.
A typical day with times
All communication took place via a WhatsApp group. In the evening, the message for the next day would arrive: options, recommendations, locations, and places to stay.
9:00 AM - Setting off. Then waterfalls, geysers, volcanic craters, and the coast. Different spots every day.
6:00 PM to 7:00 PM - Meeting point near the next campsite.
Evening - Barbecue, campfire, and chatting. Looking back on the day and getting to know people.
The format: how free are you really?
There were 10 to 12 vans - 24 people in total, plus two guides. They took care of everything: routes, timing, and where and when to shop.
And you’re truly free. You can team up with others and drive in a convoy with the guides, or you can sleep in, set off later, and follow your own itinerary. Everyone had days with the group and days to themselves. Exactly the kind of mix you want.
Ása Steinars in real life
She is incredibly authentic. She is exactly as she appears on Instagram: a true adventure girl, an Icelandic original. I like her immensely and love the enthusiasm with which she shares the beautiful spots of her homeland.
What really sticks with me, however, is less a single moment than the big picture: Ása and Leo juggling two children, the business, and their travels all at once. It is a huge challenge, and they handle it incredibly well. It works when you are a real team. That is inspiring.
What I learned about Iceland that isn't in any guidebook
To be honest, I can’t boil it down to just one example. It was the sum of all the little details. Especially at the glaciers, the guides knew things you wouldn't find in any book - how fast the glacier is retreating, how deep and thick it is, and why the landscape evolved the way it did. After that, you look at what lies before you in a different light.
The group
Americans, Spaniards, Mexicans, Germans, Norwegians. Very different types of people with a common denominator: open-minded, reflective, and curious about the world. The group included a young family, a couple who got engaged during the trip, and an older married couple.
Around the campfire, the conversation turned to Iceland, but also to the political situation in the US and current global events. A mix of ages, lifestyles, and perspectives - that is exactly what makes a week like this so enriching.
August 12: the solar eclipse
We didn’t have to drive to the viewing spot that day - we had already arrived the day before. Iceland had issued a warning: 20,000 people were expected in the Westfjords for the eclipse alone. After we arrived, some roads were closed to protect the towns from overcrowding. Our campsite was packed - I’d estimate around 1,000 people. To serve them all: two toilets, one outdoor shower, and two small sinks. There were lines for the restroom even at five in the morning. Iceland’s Westfjords have a lot to offer, but that day, the infrastructure was pushed to its limit.
The mood was fantastic nonetheless. Everyone woke up full of enthusiasm; you heard "Happy Eclipse Day" everywhere. We took a walk on the beach together, then started preparing. Elí, the videographer and photographer from Vanlife Iceland—and I spent two or three hours just thinking through our setup: how to shoot the photos, how to film the video. He set alarms for everything: when we needed to head out, when totality would begin, when it would peak, and when it would end. There was a buzz of excited, nervous anticipation in the air.
Then the whole group, all 24 of us set off to find our spot and set up our cameras.
It was cloudy. We didn’t see any of the partial phase. And then things moved fast. In no time at all, it grew dark and cold. The birds flew off. Somewhere, people were howling like wolves. The atmosphere was utterly mystical. After two minutes, it got light again just as quickly.
Everyone sat there, silent, impressed.
It was so much bigger than us - even though we didn't actually see the process itself. It is not something a human being can force or artificially create. A pure spectacle of nature. That is exactly what makes it so special. And that is precisely why we want to be there again for the next solar eclipse.
My highlight away from the darkness
The last evening. We played, laughed, and talked together. You could tell: twenty-four strangers had turned into a group that genuinely liked one another. The atmosphere was no longer about getting to know each other; it was like a little circus family. That’s something that stays with you for a long time.
The most unpleasant moment
Anything to do with rain. And even more annoying than cooking in the rain: going to the loo at night. In a small van like that, you have to get fully dressed, gear and all, otherwise you get wet. And getting the moisture back out of the van afterwards was difficult. Exhausting. Period.
Filming vs. Experiencing
I made a conscious effort to put the camera away time and again. I’d only bring it out for the highlights - those moments of sheer beauty - to capture content. But whenever the focus was on the group. Campfires, games, conversations - it usually stayed in the van. Otherwise, filming would have consumed the evening, and I wanted to actually experience that time.
Was der Trip kostet
Iceland is expensive. That’s the first thing to say. All in all, the total came to around 5,000 to 6,000 euros for the two of us, including flights. The flights were particularly pricey because we traveled during peak holiday season. Not the best timing.
Included in the "Vanlife Iceland" package are:
- Camper van
- Campsite fees
- BBQ & campfire
- Local experts/guides
- Iceland Adventure Map
- Airport transfer
Not included:
- Flights to Iceland
- Travel insurance
- Fuel
- Extra activities (glacier hike, kayaking, whale watching)
- Food and drink
Was it worth it? Every single cent! It was the most beautiful and varied experience I’ve ever had in such a short time.
For whom Vanlife Iceland isn't right
For anyone seeking peace and relaxation. Well, you won't find much of that there. You’re busy from the moment you wake up: brushing your teeth, breakfast, heading out. Visiting spots, hiking, driving, arriving, campfires, showering, sleeping. And then doing it all over again the next day. It’s a holiday for explorers and active types. Like an intense city break, just on a grand scale. If you’re looking for a wellness retreat, book something else.
Would I do it again?
Yes. And I wouldn’t do anything differently. We embraced every situation and made the best of it. What appeals to me next is the Northern Lights trip. The approach remains the same.
My conclusion in one sentence
If you’re open to adventure and meeting new people: Do it.
Just don’t expect a relaxing vacation.
Two minutes of darkness that can never be repeated - moments like these are exactly why I film. If you want a film for your company or brand that captures a moment that won't come again, get in touch.